Saturday, September 12, 2009

Dubai, or, How I Learned the True Meaning of the Word 'Sweaty'

Because I have forever and always wanted to see it, I picked a flight back to Sydney that went through Dubai. Sure, it's 3 and a half hours in the wrong direction (or right direction, if you keep going a bit further), but it was cheaper than some of the slightly more direct flights back to Australia. Plus, I got to see Dubai.

I only had 24 hours there, essentially arriving at noon one day, and departing at noon the following day. Flying in, I saw vast expanses of desert, until the seas of sand gave way to...more sand. After a considerable amount of sand, we suddenly flew over some semblance of civilization, and then just as suddenly landed in the middle of it. Except that we were also surrounded by palm trees.

Dubai really is a desert oasis. It's essentially a city of people who decided that a ridiculously hot strip of desert along the water would make a nice place to live, and the consequences be damned. Gotta give them some credit for that.

I had booked myself in a pretty nice place, since I didn't really know when I'd be back again (but looking back, I think it will be sooner rather than later). I was met at the airport by the hotel representative, and shown to my private 7-series BMW which would take me back to the hotel. The driver had been sitting in it with the A/C on for a little while, so it was at the perfect arctic temperature. Which is great when it's 104 degrees outside. Why I had bothered bringing jackets to three of the hottest countries ever is beyond me. Anyway...

On the drive to the hotel, the driver was very helpful in pointing out interesting landmarks along the way. Most of Dubai is still being built, and they have a considerable % of the world's cranes in use at the moment. That being said, there was some truly spectacular architecture there.

This is the Burj Dubai, the tallest building in
the world.

It stands at 2,684 feet tall - that's over
half a mile.

There are really no words for this thing -
it's like a massive metal spike tearing into
the sky.

There were a few other fantastic structures as well, including a still-under-construction monorail, the stations of which looked like sleek geometric eggs, as well as many buildings that looks like nothing else anywhere in the world.

I came to the conclusion that Dubai is home to many rather competitive people - and this isn't a bad thing at all. It's just a bunch of people who want to have the fastest car, the tallest building, the biggest yacht, or something that no one else has in the world. I was reading an article that describes Dubai as being made up of the 'have nots' and the 'have yachts.' Having seen a small glimpse of it myself, I can say that this is not far off.

The Mina A' Salam (Harbor of Peace), where I
would be staying for the next 24 hours.

The view from my room - yes, that is the
Burj Al Arab right next door.

My resort was essentially one of 3 that was
connected by a series of waterways and canals
accessible by gondola.

One view of my room - this was without a doubt
the nicest place I'd ever stayed. I mean, just
look at all the pillows.

Obligatory bathroom shot. The complimentary
shampoo / conditioner / etc had little Persian
tower domes for lids, like the buildings in Aladdin.

Looking out toward the balcony from the foyer.

The rest of the city from the hotel. If you look
closely at the skyline toward the right side of
the picture, you can see the building that houses
the indoor ski slope. Didn't make it there this
time, sadly - next time, though.

The entrance hall of the hotel, complete
with pool full of rose petals. They did not
look too kindly on my swimming in it.

I had every intention of heading out into the city and exploring, but when your sunglasses and camera do this when you head outside...



All you want to do is this...

Comfy.

Yes, within about ten seconds of walking outside, I was sweating through my shirt thanks to the wonderful humidity there. I quickly changed my plans and decided to head out to the beach instead. Skipping like a child toward the welcoming water, I was a bit surprised to discover - after splashing in up to my chest - that the water was about 90 degrees. There is just no escaping the heat. Except back in the hotel room. And I wasn't ready to go back in yet.

I hung out on the beach for a couple of hours, floating in the warm water in the shadow of the imposing Burj Al Arab. Seeing pictures of it really doesn't do it justice - I was simply in awe. It was just such a surreal experience. After a bit of a snooze on the beach, I wandered groggily back up to my room.

This was actually a really nice beach -
deserted, clean, fine sand, warm water.

With some time to kill in the afternoon, I wanted to go see the Burj Al Arab. Fun fact: if you are not staying at the Burj Al Arab (which starts at around $1400 / night), there are only certain hours you are allowed to visit. Fortunately, since it is in the same group of hotels where I was staying, they have complimentary buggies that take you over there. The only catch? You have to dress in smart casual attire. Crap.

Dressed up to the nines, I hopped in a buggy and cruised over.

The only way to access the hotel is via an over-
water bridge leading out to the island. It's
essentially a hotel with a moat. Awesome.

There are just no words for the amount of money that must be in this place. Here are a few highlights from my visit.

Each of the escalators are flanked by massive
fish tanks.

The lobby area houses a sizable water show
fountain.

Looking up the middle of the hotel from the
lobby. There were so many colors and
patterns, yet they all seemed to blend
together without being too loud.

The materials used are some of the most exquisite
ever - gold, marble, mosaic tiles. They spared
no expense.

Another colorful fountain located in the
upper lobby.

An incredible tile mosaic on the floor of the lobby.

Mr. Helmut Swarovski had this 1:750 scale
model of the Burj Al Arab crafter out of
crystal, just for the hotel.

Descending the escalator down into the lower lobby.

Someone had a really sweet white Rolls Royce
parked out front the hotel.

Someone also had a white guy parked out
front of the hotel.

Another shot of the waterways surrounding
my resort.

The sun setting out over the Arabian Gulf.

I had made 9:oo pm reservations for dinner that evening, because I wanted to fit in a massage beforehand. The spa was absolutely spectacular - sauna, steam room, plung pools, waterfall showers, lounge - and I had the entire thing to myself. The massage itself was amazing, and was definitely overdue from a busy couple of weeks.

When I got back to my room, this was waiting for me:

OH MY GOD, WHAT ARE YOU?

Seriously, what are you? You're starting to
creep me out.

After showering up for dinner, I made my way over to MJ's, which was a steakhouse located in the resort.

It was a nice place - kinda 1930s Chicago themed
inside.

To repeat, please: There ees too much peppar on
my paprikash.

Dinner consisted of warm, crusty bread, a cream
of mushroom and truffled soup, onion rings, truffle
mashed potatoes, and a wagyu sirloin, folowed by
a delicious creme brulee for dessert.

This was just a really spectacular chandelier I
saw as I was walking back toward my room.

The Burj Al Arab is lit up at night, switching
every so often between the colors of the
various Emirates.

My flight left the following day - 13 and a half hours back to Sydney on a new A380, complete with atmospheric lighting to simulate a sunrise and sunset. I had hoped to sleep at least a little bit on the flight, but thanks to a crying baby and a kid who didn't understand the meaning of an 'inside voice,' I just ended up watching a lot of movies and a half dozen episodes of Friends. We did fly directly over Maldives, though - really made me want to plan a trip there.

After eating and sweating my way through two weeks in Asia, the cold winter air of Sydney bit at my face as I left the airport. It was good to be home.

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