Thursday, May 17, 2012

Costanoa, or, There's No 'Can't' In 'Canvas,' But There Is In 'Can'tvas'

During my time back in California for a recent conference, my parents had slotted my brother and me in ahead of time for some quality family time.  This could have been any number of things: board games, dinner out somewhere, a nostalgic 'family meeting,' shucking corn, or doing some sort of yard work.  Surprisingly, it was none of these things - we were all going to the eco-campground, Costanoa, out by the coast.

Now, typically, whenever the prefix 'eco-' is attached to anything, it's usually a nice way of saying 'noticeably lacking in features or creature comforts.'  To be fair, I'm ok with this - my parents took me camping every year growing up, so I can rough it with the rest of them (provided your definition of 'roughing it' involves snug, comfy sleeping bags, and waking up to bacon, eggs, and pancakes on a griddle).  Mine does.

Open to whatever was in store, we packed enough things for the weekend in the car and headed south and west toward water.  Looping around Santa Cruz, we made our way north again until we reached the turnoff for Costanoa.  The road was lined with eucalyptus trees, and the smell took me the full 7500 miles back to Australia.  It had started to rain a little bit during the drive, but nothing particularly imposing.  We checked in, I chased after a cat (unsuccessfully) for a cuddle, and we made our way to our cabins.

Oh-ho!  Cabins, you say?  What sort of camping is this?  Let me assure you, I use the term cabin in the loosest definition of the word.  It was a metal frame with a canvas shell.  And a lamp.  And some bulk-purchased artwork.  There were beds, at least - small miracles.  Unlike the beds, which were not miracles, but still small.

Unloading most of our items to the cabins while the rain was waning, we took a quick meander around the campground.  There were a handful of other tents like ours, a general store (a store where, because they don't get the bulk or near-cost buying benefits of supermarkets, you pay out the nose for a bag of marshmallows), and a bar / restaurant.  We headed to the bar for a drink first, because, to be fair, it was pretty darn cold - and those who know me well enough, know that this is a rare statement coming from me.

But first, we had to pass the gatekeeper.

Apparently gaining the gatekeeper's approval to pass,
we strode purposefully past, responding to its apathetic
glance with a pat on the head.  Like you do with most
guards.  On an unrelated note, I am no longer allowed
in London.

I am going to take this as approval as well.
Hard to tell with cats.

There was another, slightly larger cat - missing a considerable portion of one ear - who felt the need to give the subcutaneous section of one of my fingers some fresh air.  I suddenly had a surgical incision made in my hand by one of the most cantankerous cats you've ever seen.  Sweet Jeebus, was he ever fast.

Settling into the bar, we had beers / teas / Mexican Coffees - whatever happened to tickle our individual fancies.  Sufficiently warmed up, and wrapped in wet-weather gear, we all decided a walk to the beach was in order.  We set out across the grounds, festively poncho'd, toward the ocean.  The rain continued its steady drizzle down around us.  Still, I would prefer cold and damp to warm and sweaty.

We passed some stables, some parked RVs, and eventually the Pacific Coast Highway, across which waited the sandy, iceplant-covered dunes, and a very grey sea.  Shockingly, there weren't many other people hiking out among the sands.  We ran into a couple people, but they scampered off in the other direction.  We didn't linger - they were easily startled, but they'd be back, and in greater numbers.

Brady roosts on his hill with his advice animal umbrella.

A single seagull (singull?) braves the waves to stand
on the rocks.

So many people equate the California coast with surfers
and sun and swimmers.  Just a heads-up...that's much,
much further south.

Just in case you couldn't quite catch all the greyness
in the last picture, here's some more.

The waves were pretty fierce, which of course meant
I had to get as close to them as possible without falling
in.

This little sandpiper was tempting fate more than I
was - sitting on a rock that was becoming increasingly
buffeted by waves.  "But Carson, it can fly."  "Are you
saying I can't?  Challenge accepted."

Day 57...I've successfully managed to infiltrate the
colony.  The inhabitants seem none the wiser to my
presence.  Must also remember to pick up dry
cleaning at some point...

Having had enough of the wind, rain, cold, and sand, we opted to head back to the campground and figure out what to do until dinner, which, given our time trekking across the dunes, was not far away at all.

On the way back, we encountered more avian wildlife:
quails!

There is unfortunately a dearth of pictures from that evening - we had an excellent dinner, fueled by plenty of wine, and I left not being able to feel feelings anymore.  Nor able to move without some considerable effort.  We retired to our respective cabins - the children in one, the parents in the other.  To give you an idea of how cold it really was, I slept in two sleeping bags, one inside of the other.  And cinched closed the opening of one of them.  Ah, and let us not forget the fact that it was still raining, and what a wonderful, melodious sound rain droplets make against a taut tarpaulin.  Eventually it all turned into white noise and I fell asleep.  Or was lulled into a bout of unconsciousness from the cold.  Whatever the case was, I woke feeling rested.

Some other campers had mentioned a lookout the previous day, and having a curious fondness for going to the highest place wherever I am, it had to be done.  I was up before everyone else, and set off through the fields.  To be forthcoming, this was not an epic jungle adventure.  It was a gradual, rolling slope at best.  But from the audible squelch my shoes made after stepping off the beaten path, I knew there would be at least some meddlesome element to my morning hike.

The bridge leading to my adventure, blessedly
balrog-free.

The first of the plethora of wildlife seen that morning.
There were so many rabbits along the hillside.  Come
to think of it, I can't recall seeing more than one at a
time - it may have very well been the same rabbit
following me around.  Concerned.

The weather began to improve considerably as the
morning rolled on.  That still didn't change the fact
that I was wading through viscous mud with a coefficient
of friction approaching zero.

Looking out at the coast from what may have been the
lookout.  It was all fairly level, really.

It may have been around this point that the mud thought I needed some exercise, and I was inadvertently forced into a lunge position, my knee landing on the ground with a sound reminiscent of someone stepping on an overripe peach.  I looked around at first to make sure no one had seen me.  No one had - except for that damn rabbit.  Then I did an additional lunge with the other knee for good measure, to make it appear as though my spontaneous aerobics were completely intentional.  Which they were.  Obviously.

When wildlife was not around, I had to make do
with some of the coastal foliage to be found along
the trail.

There was also this colorful red and green stuff, which,
aside from being pretty, did an excellent job at disguising
the mud lurking underneath.

Most of the hike was out in the open, so I was
thankful to have some tree cover to protect me
from the glaring sun complete lack of sunshine
outside.

I was on the right track, at least.  Either that, or I was
completely misunderstanding someone's instructions
to follow behind them.

Oh, sure, water is nice and pretty when it's sitting all
bead-like on a blade of grass.  But not so much when
it's conspiring with topsoil to permanently stain my jeans.

They don't really give you much of a choice
for walking.  The one path they provide is full
of mud, and anything outside of it can open a
Pandora's Box of sliding, sinking, and untimely
faceplants.  At one point - I kid you not - the
entire path had been transformed into a soggy
peat bog.

Some of the colorful flowers dotting the side of the hill.

Followed closely by some pampas grass.  I resisted
the urge to break off a stalk and ride it around like a
broomstick.  But only just.

These are some cool plants I noticed only when
I had slipped down to their level in the aforementioned
peat bog.  Not sure it was worth it.

Eventually completing the loop to the lookout, it led me
back to the main road into Costanoa, and back in the
midst of the eucalyptus trees.  No koalas, sadly.

As I neared the campground again, I noticed a hummingbird
flitting between these purple coastal flowers.

So many of these turned out wrong for just one to
turn out right.

Annnnnd one more for good measure.

This one was feeling left out, so I obliged him as well.

I returned to the campsite to find the rest of my family missing.  Realizing I had the possible makings of a pretty good horror film on my hands, I was slightly disappointed to find that they had been out walking as well, my brother actually having had taken my same route, just slightly behind me.  We packed our things again and drove up the coast to one of our favorite breakfast haunts, Duarte's in Pescadero.  We enjoyed another delightful meal, and started the not-so-long trip home, where one more gatekeeper was waiting to greet us.

Gracie, offering what was either the beginning of a hug,
or an attempt at causing grievous bodily harm.  Cats,
right?

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Western Plains Zoo, or, Dubbo the Pleasure, Dubbo the Fun



For Christmas, Alex and I - spurred by our mutual obsession with animals - decided to go to Dubbo for a weekend to visit the Western Plains Zoo, the sister zoo to Sydney's Taronga. She hadn't been since she was a wee lass, and I had (shockingly) never been before. Aside from the prospect of spending the night at the zoo in the Zoofari Lodge and getting some up-close-and-personal time with the animals, one of the main draws of this zoo is the fact that it's a much larger layout, and you can ride bikes around the grounds. Win.


We left Friday afternoon to try and (unsuccessfully) beat the traffic, eventually arriving in Mudgee for dinner at around 8:15. After a quick dinner in town, we made the last bit of our journey to our hotel in Dubbo. There's not a lot to do in Dubbo, really - so let's just skip ahead to the fun part.


Rising the following morning, we headed straight for the zoo, excited to get the weekend properly started. After checking in at the front gate, we were given our bike rental slips, and a stack of pamphlets outlining the activities of the day. Stuffing them in various purses, pockets, and satchels, we went to pick up our bikes.



Somehow they looked a lot bigger in the pictures.

Other options available for seeing the zoo included in your own car, on foot, or by renting electric carts.  We couldn't help but notice that most of the carts cruising around the zoo seemed to be occupied by people who could have benefited from some discretionary decision-making on behalf of the vehicle rental counter staff.

"I'm sorry, we're all out of carts today."

"But what about those over there?"

"Broken."

"But this one is clearly running."

"Reserved."

"How could they possibly be res-..."

"Look, just get on a bike, butterball."

I could probably write a book on the quickest non-murder-y way to get fired from any job. But that's for another day.

After a bit of time spent by Alex remembering that riding a bike is 'just like riding a bike,' we were off.


Photographic evidence that everyone looks
totally awesome in bike helmets.

We had arranged to go feed giraffes shortly after arriving, and proceeded to check out a few of the nearby animals before heading to the giraffe paddock.


The first stop? Black rhinos!


Shortly thereafter, the dromedary camels,
and a little bird along for the ride.

By this time, we had biked around long enough that we needed to head over to the giraffes for our morning feeding. The day was stunning, and the weather couldn't have been more perfect. I was a bit concerned at the structural integrity of my bike, but soldiered on regardless. The zoo was also blessedly crowd-free. It had been explained to us at one point that while the Taronga Zoo receives about 2 million visitors each year, the Western Plains Zoo only receives about 200,000. As such, it relies on a lot of revenue support from the more prosperous zoo to continue functioning. Ah, here we are at the giraffes.


Spring had only recently sprung, and there were
still quite a few baby animals around the zoo,
not the least of which was this baby giraffe.

One of the earliest animal facts I can recall
learning was that giraffes have purple tongues.
Good to know it's still true.

'Scuse me...pardon me...'scuse me...just
lemme in...can almost...there we go.
*munch munch munch*

*sigh* Every damn time I drop my car keys...

Picture of my favorite animal with her
favorite animal.

A long day of standing around eating leaves can
really wear you out.

I see you.

"OK, nobody move! I just lost a contact lens.
Nobod-...Mitch! What did I just say?! Don't
move! It's gotta be around here somewhere..."

As the keeper approached with the carrots, the
giraffes all began to gather in one place. It was like
a much larger, much more intimidating remake of
The Birds.

The look of giddy excitement on Alex's face says
it all.

I wear my sunglasses at night. And when feeding
giraffes.

Alex made the mistake at one point of alerting me
to the fact that her dad makes a habit of taking
pictures of her mom coming out of the restroom.
Naturally, I was a perfect gentleman and the thought
didn't even cross my mind.


Having just watched Rise of the Planet of
the Apes, I can help but feel like the green in
his eyes denotes some sort of higher intelligence.

What do you get when you cross a rhinoceros
and an elephant? Elephino.

There's nothing funny about turtles.

A superb fairy wren - during breeding season, half
the male population develops these bright colors,
while the other half retains their normal tan color.

Getting up-close and personal with the great
spectacled burrowing elephant.

This guy was bucking like crazy - had to use the
Sport mode on my camera to capture this one.

Elephants always look so happy when they're eating.

I've exhausted my supply of elephant / rhino jokes.
Sorry.

A tiger doing what cats do best: sitting around and
being absolutely useless.

Alex doing what Alex does best: frolicking.

Vintage Alex doing her best Jetstar pose.

The siamang gibbon, somehow immune to the
gravity that plagues the rest of us.

And prone to recreating that famous Bigfoot
photo.

You otter know that it's bigger than you are.

Wait a second, this isn't Christmas. (author's
note: also, not actually a reindeer)

Couldn't have asked for a better day, weather-
wise, nor company-wise.

2 for 2. My amusement level was rising.
Hers was not.

You'd look like this too if you were a
water buffalo without water.

Reason #924 why big cats are the same as small
cats.

"There's got to be a quacker commute than this.
Maybe if I had something to reed. Dammit, I
should really be writing these down. I wish I
had hands."

It was actually a really nice day, but a bit of black
and white can make anything look a bit foreboding.

Taking pictures of the Przewalski's horses. I don't
know why people don't wear bike helmets very
often - they look amazing.

Przewalski's horse - pronounced 'sheh-VAL-ski.'
And 'HORS.' Yeah, I don't get it either.

A scruffy buffalo (scruffalo?) in the middle
of a bit of shedding.

Naturally, they had an Australian outback
exhibit, where all manner of native creatures
were running around. Not surprisingly, likely
due to being terrified by free-roaming children,
most of the animals shied away from us.

Taken a fraction of a second before this
little one hopped to the most remote corner
of the enclosure.

I can only assume that this one had given up on life,
or that Alex has some manner of magical powers.

With newfound vitality, it leaped from its
former place of rest, and bounded across the
meadow.

I think we followed this same one around the
enclosure since it was the least apprehensive
about us getting close to it.

This ostrich was following me back and forth
along the fence, and staring me down in what
was either a territorial display, or a courtship
ritual.

Not captured in the above still photo:
flirtatious batting of eyelashes.

Next up on the bicycle tour: zebras!
This is pretty much all they did.

On the plus side, there was a baby zebra.
But it was doing the same thing as well.

Watch...as the Great Helmeted Alex silently
stalks her prey.

Did I mention it was an amazing day?
Because it was.

These sacred ibises (ibii?) are all over Sydney.
They look like feathered dinosaurs, or something
equally prehistoric. I think I've found their nest. I
felt a bit like Ripley wandering into the middle of
the queen's egg chamber in Aliens.

A happy cockatoo. Well, presumably happy.
For all I know he could be miserable, having
just suffered through a messy cockatoo divorce.

A pair of purple swamphen, which I think look
a bit prehistoric as well. Almost like a Gastornis.

This lake had me feeling a bit...reflective.

Ah, finally - the one animal that can't run away.

"Do you have a cold?" "No, we are allergic to
youth."

After much, much coaxing, Alex finally opted
to pet the tortoise. It then moved its head slightly
and she jumped back 15 feet. I was very impressed
by the distance of her leap.

"Die? Now that, at least, would be something."

Lemurs doing what lemurs do best: laze.

Probably the most intense stare I've ever received
from a turtle. And let me tell you, I've received
a lot of intense turtle stares.

At this point in the afternoon, we were able to check into the Zoofari Lodge. For being nothing more than a canvas sheet stretched over a frame, the cabins were surprisingly nice, with more beds than we had people, and a bathroom included (because there's nothing like wandering through the dark at night when you have to pee).

The interior of the canvas tent / room thing where
we were staying at the Zoofari Lodge. Alex not
included. See participating stores for details.

We were in cabin Oryx, the most spry and least
spidery of all the cabins, which is a LIE BECAUSE
THERE WERE SPIDERS EVERYWHERE.

Our stay at the lodge also included a host of behind-the-scenes tours of the zoo into places the general public doesn't normally get to see, which was a huge plus.

Our first stop on the tour was the African Dogs.
They had amazing patterns in their fur.

It was meal time, and every single one of them
looked like this when the keeper held up a chunk
of raw meat. They were also making these sounds.
Eerie.

Once each individual had secured their own piece
of meat, they would run off and hide with it, where
they devoured it in seconds, bones and all.

Meerkatting: like dogpiling, except everyone sits
on the bottom person's head instead of just jumping
on them.

"Please, suh...can I have some more?"

I also learned that there is always a single
meerkat in the colony keeping watch for
predators and thrifty coupon deals.

A siamang gibbon - they actually keep them on
an island and move their food out them via a basket
and a pulley, due to the fact that they are so
dangerous.

Also kept on an island and fed using a basket
and pulley for similar reasons.

After the tour was over, we went back to the lodge for what ended up being a really delicious meal. I was delighted to discover that there was another night tour still to follow dinner. In hindsight, I probably should have chewed my food more, as I switched to great white shark eating mode out of excitement.


This was the zoo's take on nachos. While I'm not
entirely certain of sweet chili sauce's usage in
modern Mexican cuisine, the end result was still
very tasty.

Followed by delicious salmon. I tucked small bits of
this into my pocket for use in luring animals we might
see on the tour later.

Finishing dinner, we took a walk over to the animal paddock,
where some animals were grazing in the distance, warily
keeping their distance from a roving band of vicious
rabbits.

The next tour was due to begin after the sun went down,
so we enjoyed the setting sun before boarding the bus.

Our first stop was an elephant...doing elephant things.

Then is got dark all of a sudden and we were
attacked by this little echidna going all Super
Saiyan. Or the keeper was shining a light on him,
my memory's a little hazy.

We saw a few other animals that evening, one of which was the feeding of a tiger, which was really great to see. Being a staunch follower of rules and respecter of animals, I wasn't able to get any night photos, so you'll just have to take my word that it was awesome.

The following morning, we had our final behind-the-scenes tour, which involved feeding a giraffe. Again. Not complaining, mind you.

Alex doing what she does best: reaching
really tall things.

Now, when it came time for my turn, the keeper had instructed us not to attempt to pet the giraffe, because of the whole 'not used to having things near their heads' thing. So I sauntered up, held the carrot as suggested, and smiled toward the camera. The next thing I know, my hand is being nuzzled by a giraffe nose. Technically I didn't pet it, but I think it knew I wanted to.

Smiling, because I'm getting away with it.

"Please, suh...may I have some more?"
Thinking this line a bit suspicious, I pulled away
the giraffe disguise to find a mob of meerkats
stacked on one anothers' shoulders.  As they ran back
into the confines of the zoo, one of them shook a tiny
paw at me and exclaimed how they would have
gotten away with it too if it weren't for those
meddling kids.

We then moved along to the lioness pen - the male(s)
were on display at the time, but the females were
at least up and about.

All of that caging is unnecessary, really -
I've said it before, but all cats are exactly the
same regardless of size. They just want to give
you cuddles. Or ignore you.

See? Same with this one, proudly displaying its
'I'm-going-to-completely-ignore-you-unless-I-need-
something-from-you' face.

Close-up of a rhino's eye - almost looks like cracked
desert clay around it. So cool.

Same rhino, just...more of it.

We also got to stop by an elephant toward the
end of the tour. It was clearly overjoyed to
see us all.

That just about wraps up our visit to Dubbo. We took an alternate route home through Orange to the south, which was predominantly countryside, but had some...well, interesting surprises in store for us nonetheless.

Out here, you can see forever. Well, whatever
isn't obscured by hills, clouds, plants...

I particularly liked this tree because it reminded
me of the movie poster for Big Fish.

You may have noticed (or you mightn't have), that there is a bicycle in the above tree. This was something we noticed as we drove along the road, as it was replicated in many trees for several miles. The first one was amusing, the second, an eerie coincidence, the third, a bit odd, and by the fourth one, it started to feel a bit like the creepy stick dolls hanging from the trees in the Blair Witch Project.

Here's Alex expressing confusion over the
tree-borne cycles. Treecycles?

Another creepy bicycle tree.

A close-up photo of one of the bicycles. Why do
I have the ominous feeling that this is going to
end up in the final minutes in a 'found footage'
film?

More endless countryside. As unnerving as they
were, the bicycle trees were actually a welcome
reprieve from our time spent looking at
ABSOLUTELY NOTHING AT ALL.

We stopped briefly for lunch at what was apparently
the only restaurant for which you didn't need a
booking in the area. The service was fairly lacking.
Actually, apathetic would probably be a better word.
Food was ok. View was probably the best part.

Especially when your table is on the corner of
a patio overlooking a wide swath of vineyards.

Our final stop on the way home was Goldfield's
Honey...farm? I'm not sure what you'd call it.
Regardless, Alex was hungry, and I needed more
sugar. She ended up getting some amazing
scones, and I got a couple massive jars of honey.

And just to prove that it was real honey, here are
some bees. All things bee-ing equal, we hive had
an excellent weekend.